The first option is by far the best because it requires virtually zero adjustments and will be the lightest. The next best option is a 4-link with a lateral locating device (so really a 5-link).Īfter that I would use a Torque Arm with a lateral locating device and RLCAs. The best possible option is a 3-link (plus lateral locating device, so really a 4-link but that results in confusion with most people) with the 3rd link offset to the right side to null the driveshaft torque reaction. Unfortunately most of the people in the industry building parts for these cars have never studied any of it. All of the relevant physics were analyzed many, many years ago. Optimizing a solid axle car so that it has the maximum possible forward grip is not that hard to do. It works = I don't know enough about physics to explain this Also I have only found replacement bushings once or twice for the lowers and since Ford only serviced them as complete units, the bushing costs were almost as much as a new set of control arms from MM. That is why you want to use a quality replacement such as Maximum Motorsports or something else similar in design that allows the lower control arm to articulate as it needs to while moving through the suspension range. Same is actually true to a similar degree for the lower control arm. that is not possible and you induce additional binding in the suspension. If you use poly or anything else such as square tube control arms, etc. The reason is the stock upper actually twist and elongate as the suspension cycles up and down. If you are staying with the stock style Quadra Bind suspension, then you want to keep the stock upper control arms and use good quality replacement rubber bushings in both the rear axle position and on the body position. Now if you want to really improve the suspension then you need to look at a Torque Arm setup, but that's a whole 'nother rabbit hole. Run a quality lower like MM and DON'T run anything for uppers except a set of OEM arms with rubber bushings. If you are running it on the street and occasionally on the strip, then stay away from poly bushings at both ends of the lower control arms. If you are a serious/hardcore drag racing running 10 seconds or less and 800 lb/FT of torque, then YES you might want to consider some reinforcements, full cage, and other things. (Again personally I only use the Maximum Motorsport lower control arms)ĭON'T believe the internet lore that all torque boxes get torn up and the only way to solve it is the reinforcements, battle boxes, etc. Install a good set of full length subframe connectors (personally like Maximum Motorsports) and then spend the money on a good set of lower control arms. Save yourself the time, the money, and the frustration. As Jack mentioned that is standard Fox torque boxes.
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